It’s summer here in New York City. Or, you’d think it was, given the bonkers warm weather we’re dealing with right now. This time last year, the world was a wet, dark place, one of slushy, knee-deep puddles of dirty melting snow and crowded subway rides thanks to everyone wearing downy sleeping-bags-as-jackets. (Thanks, Canada Goose.)

But today? A pleasant 60 degrees with just a hint of crisp winter air. People were wearing shorts! I mean, come on.

Now normally, I hate summer. I hate being hot, as my islander genes kick into overdrive and turn me into the Swamp Thing. One can only get so naked before decency prevails, while the presence of air conditioning dictates my activity level. That said, this spate of summer-in-winter has actually been pleasant, as there has been no humidity here in Brooklyn. Hallelujah.

I am still confused by it all, though. Not just about what to wear—can I get away with no jacket today? Is my Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles t-shirt too casual?—but what to eat or drink. I’m a creature of comfort, and often let weather or circumstance dictate my meals. If things were normal, you’d find my face hosing down a big ol’ pile of pasta as soon as the mercury even hints at dipping, but with summery weather, I’m instead reaching for (*gasp*) salad. Likewise, I’m shelving my hearty reds (for now).

When temps start to creep up, I’m definitely fucking heavy with whites, and if you know anything about me, you’d know that I’d prefer it, shall we say, jazzy. Sauntering over to my wine rack today, I found the right bottle, Francois Chidaine’s traditional method sparkling wine. Listen up: This bottle is out of control. Chidaine is a revolutionary in Loire, having made a name for himself with insanely expressive biodynamic wines that remain surprisingly affordable. With a hands off winemaking approach and ultra low yields, his pours are some of the most exciting bottles I have the joy of seeking out.

Like this guy. Hailing from Montlouis-sur-Loire, it is a 100% Chenin Blanc done in the traditional Champagne method. I’m basically feeling fancy and free with this stunner. Its delightfully tight bubbles deliver flavors of ginger, lemon and tangerine, hinting at summer and oysters and all-day beach hangs. True to form for this style of wine, it also smells of pastry, like a freshly made lemon-curd Danish. I downed this bottle over the course of a few hours today, treating myself to some alone time cleaning the kitchen and doing chores.

Sure, that doesn’t sound at all glamorous but what do you think I was gonna do? Enjoy the unseasonably pleasant weather by going to brunch with my friends and sharing this wine? GTFO.